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Shanghai Nights Part 3 - Shanghai, Economic Powerhouse?

Some people have written about how the Chinese economy is overheating, and in the past couple of weeks, the ST also ran articles about the environmental and social fallout resulting (at least in part) from the fast pace of change in China. I'll just leave it to the experts to discuss those issues. But I will add here my two cents worth about why I feel there is some way yet to go. No spectacular theories or views, just my low-level, non-tai-tai observations.

To me, economic progress has to be accompanied by progress on other fronts -- social, political, etc. There is no denying that there has been progress in these areas but, as we see in practically all other societies (including ours), the economy tends to grow much faster than the rest of society can change and adapt. So here are some of my 'pet peeves' about life there:

Queue-jumping
Of course this happens everywhere in the world (even in Singapore) but when it is a way of life, you are really dealing with queue-jumping at another level. When you queue for your subway ticket, without fail, someone is going to try to cut queue. Very often, they will be successful. That is largely because they are skilful at it. It's hard to explain and it's something you just have to see to understand.

Spitting
Another horrible habit, not alien to Singaporeans either. You have to be on the lookout everywhere -- it can happen on the street, in a shopping centre, etc. When we were walking on the platform looking for our Nanjing train, a train bound for Nanjing (turned out not to be ours) pulled into the station and as we peered at the carriages and their numbers, this man just opened his carriage window and gave a good spit onto the platform, never mind that there were many people walking about there.

Public transport
I did say earlier that they have a well-connected internal network and that is true. However, I suppose because of the large population, the crowds can be awful. The boy found it amusing to be squashed in the subway train during peak hours but to me it was torture. And when it is winter and you are in all your thick clothes, and you have to squeeze in a crowded train which is heated, that is really not funny.

Cab fare is affordable but the traffic can be bad too, so the train is often the best bet. Anyway, most of the taxis look like they should be in the junkyard, and as SW would say, when you get in, you will just sink halfway into the seat. We are so wasteful here in Singapore, scrapping cars that are in a hundred times better condition.

The inside of a cab. The lock is gone and so is the latch to open the door. Someone has to open it for you from the outside.






Smoking
With all our 'no smoking' areas, I have become quite intolerant of cigerette smoke, but if you have to live and work in Shanghai, it is something you will have to put up with, and I don't know how you can avoid it. Like spitting, etc, it is a way of life.

Toilets
I did also say that the toilet scene is much improved, and that is, of course, true. My first ever trip to China was during the days of the famed toilets with no doors, so they really have come a long way. The toilets in the new and modern shopping centres or restaurants are good enough, but the ones found elsewhere could do with some sprucing up.

These are available on the train to Nanjing:



I realise these toilet don't look that bad in the pictures, and, indeed, my husband thinks they are okay. But I think males and females have different toilet standards. And I really would avoid using these if I could, especially if they have to be shared by so many people for a number of hours. Actually, I noticed that quite a large number of people did avoid them, though I'm not sure how they did it. In 2004, we took overnight trains between Beijing and Shenyang and the toilets were similar, except there is no way you can avoid using them.

The thing about the Nanjing train toilet was I couldn't find the flush and I really looked all over for it. But there was a pail of water and I suppose toilet users are to scoop the water out of it to flush the toilet. However, one wouldn't know how long the water has been there, and what anyone or anything might have done to or into the water. And the thing was the scoop wasn't even floating at the top. It was kind of submerged in the water.

As for toilet doors, it is wonderful that they have been fixed. But using toilets without doors must have become too ingrained in some people's lives. I had forgotten that some people actually use the toilets without closing the doors and that was what I was greeted with at the airport on the night we arrived. The boy, who had gone with me to the toilet, was quite dumbfounded.

Copyright infringement
Whatever fake or pirated goods you are thinking of you can probably find there. And quite openly touted too. When you walk along Huai Hai Road, which leads to the large open-air Xiangyang market (a pasar malam-ish sort of place), you will be hounded by people wanting to sell you fake watches, designer bags, what have you. It is really irritating, and not really because I'm a prude about fake goods or anything. If I want a fake designer bag, I will look for one myself. I don't need all these people to keep following me around with 'catalogues'. I seldom shout, especially at strangers, but I did a couple of times because these people just wouldn't take 'no, thank you' for an answer. I mean, what's with them? You say nicely that you don't want to buy any and they follow you around talking non-stop about their beautiful products. Anyway, I hear that Xiangyang market is going to be closed sometime soon. So anyone who wants any fakes had better rush there to get them.

So Shanghai, as a microcosm-ish representative of China, is a place of paradoxes. But I suppose all cities are like that, and they all have their plusses and minuses. And the fact remains that the city is doing well economically.

But then there are also the problems of the rich-poor gap, rural-urban migration, corruption, etc, etc...

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